|
Are you ready to ride the waves and experience the adrenaline-pumping thrill of jet skiing? Summer is the perfect time to hit the water and create lasting memories with family and friends. At Jetskiparts.biz, we share your passion for jet skiing and are committed to providing you with the best parts and accessories to elevate your aquatic adventures. In this blog post, we'll introduce you to the exciting world of Jetskiparts.biz and how we can help you make the most of your jet ski experience!
1. Your One-Stop Jet Ski Parts Shop: Jetskiparts.biz is your go-to destination for all things jet ski! We understand the importance of having top-quality parts and accessories to keep your jet ski performing at its peak. From engine components and impellers to electrical parts and safety gear, our vast selection ensures you'll find everything you need to keep the fun going. 2. Enhance Performance and Speed: Unleash the true potential of your jet ski with our performance-enhancing parts. Whether you're looking to boost speed, improve acceleration, or enhance fuel efficiency, our premium upgrades will take your jet ski to the next level. Get ready to leave a trail of exhilaration as you zip through the water! 3. Keep Safety a Priority: Your safety is our top concern. We offer a wide range of safety gear and equipment, including life vests, goggles, and communication devices, to ensure you have a safe and worry-free ride. With Jetskiparts.biz, you can enjoy your jet ski adventures with peace of mind. 4. Personalize Your Jet Ski: Make your jet ski truly yours with our selection of stylish and practical accessories. From custom graphics and decals to waterproof storage solutions, you can add a personal touch to your jet ski and make it stand out on the water. 5. Expert Advice and Customer Support: At Jetskiparts.biz, we're more than just a parts store; we're passionate about jet skiing, just like you! Our experienced team is always ready to offer expert advice and guidance, ensuring you make the right choices for your jet ski's maintenance and upgrades. 6. Join Our Jet Ski Community: Be a part of our thriving jet ski community by following our blog and social media channels. Stay updated on the latest jet ski trends, maintenance tips, and exciting water sports events. Connect with fellow jet ski enthusiasts, share your experiences, and get inspired for your next ride! Conclusion: This summer, get ready to dive into a world of jet ski excitement with Jetskiparts.biz by your side. Whether you're a seasoned rider seeking to enhance your jet ski's performance or a new adventurer in search of safety gear, we have it all. Visit our website today to explore our extensive range of jet ski parts and accessories and gear up for unforgettable water adventures! Bobby Boop JetSkiParts.Biz #Jetskipartsbiz #JetSkiAdventures #ElevateYourRide #JetSkiUpgrades #WaterSportsFun #SafetyFirst #JetSkiCommunity #SummerThrills
0 Comments
 The Jet Ski SX-R 160 personal watercraft features powerful thrust and agile handling from the V-shape hull and produces plenty of low-to-mid-range torque from its 1498cc 4-stroke engine. This makes the stand-up PWC accessible to many riders thanks to the hull which is long and wide, providing stability for novice riders. The 2024 Jet Ski SX-R 160 stand-up watercraft is available with an Ebony/Ice Gray colorway and an MSRP of $11,599. Winter Maintenance for Your Jet Ski: A Guide by Jetskiparts.biz
Introduction As winter creeps in, jet ski enthusiasts know it's time to say goodbye to those thrilling rides on the water. But before you store your beloved jet ski for the colder months, it's essential to ensure that it's properly winterized to protect your investment and keep it in optimal condition. At Jetskiparts.biz, we understand the importance of maintaining your watercraft, and in this article, we'll guide you through the winterization process and offer valuable insights into how we can help you find the right parts for your jet ski. Winterizing Your Jet Ski Proper winterization is crucial to safeguard your jet ski from the harsh winter elements and prevent any potential damage. Here's a comprehensive guide to winterizing your jet ski:
Finding the Right Parts At Jetskiparts.biz, we understand the significance of using high-quality parts and accessories to keep your jet ski in peak condition. Whether you need replacement impellers, spark plugs, filters, or any other part for your jet ski, we have you covered. Here's how we can assist you:
Conclusion Winterizing your jet ski is a vital step in protecting your investment and ensuring it runs smoothly when you're ready to hit the water again. By following the steps mentioned above and relying on Jetskiparts.biz for all your jet ski part needs, you can confidently face the colder months, knowing that your watercraft is in good hands. When spring returns, you'll be all set to enjoy countless thrilling rides on your jet ski. Bobby Boop Editor JetSkiParts.Biz Accurately tuning a Jet Ski carburetor requires a basic understanding of its functions and adhering to a few basic rules. Most importantly, you can only expect the carb to work as well as your engine does; the performance of your carb cannot make up for a weak or worn out engine. Another point to stress here is that you may not be able to achieve maximum performance from your watercraft simply by changing jets in the carb. A mismatch of engine components and or porting may create a carburetion nightmare. The best advise is to use quality parts and service from reputable dealers. To achieve an accurate calibration with a carb you should adjust the tuneable circuits in the following order:
1. LOW SPEED ADJUSTER -To adjust a smooth idle 2. POP-OFF PRESSURE -Just off idle to 1/4 throttle in conjunction with the low speed jet. 3. LOW SPEED JET -Just off idle to 1/3 throttle. 4. HIGH SPEED JET - 1/3 to 3/4 throttle. 5. HIGH SPEED ADJUSTER -3/4 to wide open throttle. The reason for adjusting the circuits in this order is because several circuits contribute to the total fuel delivery of the carb. Changing the low speed jet for example, affects wide open throttle fuel delivery to some degree The exceptions to the rule are the low speed adjuster and the regulator portion: the low speed adjuster has no effect past 1/3 throttle. The regulator portion has no tuning effect past 1/4 throttle, although it continues to control the fuel supply. IDLE STOP SCREW The idle stop screw is used to adjust the idle speed (rpm) by opening or closing the throttle valve. refer to your watercraft owners manual for the correct idle speed. As a rule of thumb, adjust the idle speed to approximately 1100 rpm. LOW SPEED ADJUSTER The low speed adjuster is used in conjunction with the idle stop screw to adjust and maintain idle speed and smoothness. Experiment turning the low speed adjuster in and out in small increments until a smooth idle is obtained. As the idle stop screw is turned in our out to raise or lower idle speed the low speed mixture is also affected. For clarification, if the idle stop screw is turned out to lower idle speed, this action increases manifold pressure slightly and richens the low speed mixture so that a mixture adjustment may be required. The low speed adjuster is very sensitive and adjustments should be made in small increments only. Note: Remember, the low speed adjuster is only for adjusting the idle mixture. If you use the adjuster to help get rid of a low speed hesitation, you will probably find that your engine will load up in no wake zones, or after extended idling. POP-OFF PRESSURE AND LOW SPEED JET How do pop-off pressure and the low speed jet work together? These two circuits overlap, although the low speed jet continues past 1/4 throttle where pop-off pressure has little to no effect. In general, if your pop-off is slightly too high, you can compensate by increasing the size of the low speed jet. The opposite is also true; if the low speed jet is slightly too small, you can compensate with less pop-off pressure. Once you get to the point where you think each is adjusted correctly, it's best to try varying the two to make certain you have the best combination. For example: If you have pop-off pressure of 30 psi and a 67.5 low speed jet, you should also try a pop-off of say 35 psi and a 70 low speed jet. To verify that you have the correct combination there are two things to test: 1. Throttle response should be crisp, with no hesitation. 2. Ride the boat at a constant 1/4 throttle opening for about 1 minute and then quickly open the throttle fully, there should be no hesitation and the engine should not show signs of being loaded up. If it hesitates, it's lean; if it's loaded up, it's rich. The first test is to check pop-off pressure, the second test is checking the correctness of the low speed jet size. Take the time to ride the boat slowly and thoroughly test your jetting changes. After a jet change, it takes the engine a few minutes of use to completely respond to the change. When does it become necessary to adjust pop-off? When personal watercraft come from the factory they have fairly high pop-off due to the fact that they also have somewhat restrictive air intake systems that cause the engine to generate very high manifold pressures; the higher the manifold pressures, the higher the pop-off pressure required to properly regulate the fuel delivery to the engine. As you modify or change your watercraft's flame arrestor to a less restrictive type you will most likely start to experience a lean hesitation caused by a decrease in manifold pressure. This change will require an adjustment in pop-off pressure to regain crisp throttle response. Because most aftermarket flame arrestors are less restrictive than stock, you will need to decrease pop-off to compensate. The Super BN carbs that come from Mikuni America are already set up for performance applications, and come with pop-off settings lower than the carbs that come as original equipment. Pop-off pressure, (the regulator portion of the Super BN) is a tuneable component of the Super BN and works in conjunction with the low speed jet for good initial throttle response. The components that make up the regulator portion of the Super BN are: 1. Needle Valve, available in 4 sizes, 1.5, 2.0, 2.3 and 2.5 (Note: Some OEM carbs have 1.2) 2. Arm Spring, available in 4 sizes, 115gr., 95gr., 80gr. And 65 gr. 3. Arm 4. Regulator Diaphragm The arm has a limited range of adjustment; from the arm being level with the adjacent carb surface to being bent upwards no more than .040" (1mm) above that surface. If the arm is bent upwards too much, it can cause the needle valve to be held open when the diaphragm and cover are installed. If the arm is bent down, its movement becomes limited and may not be enough to allow the needle valve to open fully. ADJUSTING POP-OFF PRESSURE Pop-off pressure is adjusted by replacing the arm spring with one of a different gram rating. Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired pop-off pressure, it is also necessary to change the needle valve size; keep in mind that it's always best to use the smallest needle valve size to obtain the correct pop-off pressure. MEASURING POP-OFF PRESSURE You can measure pop-off pressure with a "pop-off" pump, available from Mikuni through your dealer. CHECKING POP-OFF WITH A POP-OFF PUMP 1. Attach the pump to the fuel inlet nipple. 2. Cover, or in some way plug the fuel return nipple. 3. Remove the regulator diaphragm to observe the needle valve. 4. During testing, it is important to obtain consistent readings. To accomplish this, it is necessary to keep the needle valve wet. Use WD-40 or something similar to wet the needle valve. Note: Don't use gasoline because of the fire hazard. Protect your eyes from the spray when the needle pops open. 5. Pressurize the carb with the pump until the needle valve pops open, being careful to note the indicated pressure. Test the valve 3 times to assure an accurate reading. An indication that your pop-off needs to be adjusted is a lean hesitation when you open the throttle from idle; in the extreme, the engine may even die. It is much easier to detect a lean pop-off than it is a rich one, so it is wise to adjust your pop-off until you get it too lean and then back up until the lean hesitation disappears. Note: It is recommended that you do not use too large a needle valve for your application. Many tuners recommend using 2.3 or 2.5 needle valve in all cases. Actually, we recommend using the smallest needle valve that gives you the correct pop-off pressure for your engine. A 1.5 needle valve can flow the maximum amount of fuel that the Super BN can pump, so the only reason to use a larger needle valve is to obtain the correct needle valve and arm spring combination (pop-off) for your watercraft. HIGH SPEED JET/THROTTLE POSITION AND JETTING The high speed jet begins contributing fuel at about 3/8 throttle, overlapping the low speed jet. The high speed jet is the primary tuning component from ½ to 3/4 throttle. As you have probably noticed, tuning circuit operations are denoted in fractions of throttle openings.. the reason for this is simple: Carb jetting does not relate to engine rpm or the boat's speed, it only recognizes how far the throttle has been opened; each circuit of the carb responds in turn. This is why it's very important, when trying to diagnose a carb problem, that you identify at which throttle opening the problem occurs, in order to adjust the appropriate circuit. The procedure for testing for the correct high speed jet size is the same as for the low speed, except that you should now hold the throttle at a constant ½ open for one minute, then quickly open the throttle fully to check engine response. If the engine hesitates, the carb is lean. If the engine takes a second or two to clear out and then accelerate, the carb is too rich. In either case, make the appropriate jet change and do the complete test again. HIGH SPEED ADJUSTER The high speed adjuster is the last circuit to adjust. It primarily controls fuel delivery from 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle. Turning the screw clockwise reduces fuel flow, counter clockwise increases fuel flow. The maximum fuel flow is achieved at three turns out from closed. To test the high speed adjuster it is recommended that you start with a fresh set of spark plugs to get quicker plug readings. Unless you have an exhaust gas temperature gauge, you will have to rely on plug readings. You will need to be in an area where you can hold the throttle wide open for several minutes (Factory Pipe suggests that you only do this for about 30 seconds, longer times with a lean setting could cause engine damage) then chop the throttle and stop the engine just prior to removing the plugs to read them. Ideally, you're looking for a nice brown color on the electrode Another indicator of proper adjustment is a maximum rpm reading on a tachometer. If the carb is lean or rich, it won't pull as high an rpm reading as when it's right on. PERFORMANCE TIPS The "Left Turn Syndrome" You will find in all instances that your watercraft will turn more easily to the right than to the left. The reasons are basically simple. First, engine torque constantly places pressure on the hull to turn right. If your engine's performance is marginal, you can notice a dramatic falloff in power in a hard turn. This power falloff can't always be blamed on the engine, being over-propped can also cause the engine to slow enough to fall off its power peak. An engine with a peaky power curve is especially susceptible to a very dramatic power loss in a hard left turn. Most recently, with the increase of Sport and Runabout racing, there has been a marked improvement in hull design with a dramatic increase in "G" forces encountered while turning: over 2.5 G's. In some instances such a hard turn can cause momentary loss of power due to fuel starvation in the carbs. Jetting changes cannot correct this situation, the best solution is to rotate the mounting of the carbs 90 deg, so that their throttle shafts are perpendicular to the crankshaft axis rather that parallel. To date, this solution to the problem has been 100% successful. Fuel Dripping From The Inner Venturi At Idle This situation occurs periodically and is easy to cure. What causes this problem is a combination of two things. First, low pop-off pressure (due to installation of a 2.5 needle valve with a light spring pressure) together with an engine that has substantial vibration at idle. The engine vibration causes the needle valve to leak, which causes the engine to run even rougher. You can view this occurrence by carefully looking into the throat of the carb at idle, you will be able to see fuel dripping from the inner venturi. In this same way you can also check to see that the problem is corrected. The cure for the problem is to increase pop-off pressure until the dripping stops. Engine Hesitation When Accelerating After a High Speed Deceleration You may find it desirable to increase the number of anti-siphon valves (part# BN34/107), If you ride very fast and find that you have a noticeable stumble when reopening the throttle after a long, high speed deceleration. This is caused by excess fuel in the carb. The engine revs fairly high while decelerating, but it uses very little fuel. The fuel pump still pulses hard, but there is no demand for the fuel. A small amount of fuel will overfill the fuel chamber, leak through the high speed circuit and get deposited on top of the closed throttle valve. This fuel causes a momentary rich condition when the throttle is reopened. The solution is to use one or two additional anti-siphon valves. Never use more than two extra, and recheck your calibration after installing any extra valves; in some cases extra valves can adversely affect throttle response. Carburetor info courtesy of Mikuni. For a complete Mikuni Super BN Owners Manual send $5.00 to: Mikuni American Corporation / 8910 Mikuni Ave / Northridge, CA 91324. Advance curve: The amount the ignition advances as engine rpm increases.
Advanced timing: The setting of the ignition system to fire earlier, or faster, than set by the factory. Aftermarket: The segment of the industry that manufactures replacement parts for stock watercraft (or putting groceries in your car). Air/fuel mixture: The combination of air and fuel droplets that is ignited in an engine. Amateur: A non-professional personal watercraft racer. Amperage: The intensity or strength of an electrical current. Ampere: The unit that amperage is measured in. Ampere hour: A battery capacity rating. Anneal: To heat metal and gradually cool it. Axial flow: A jet pump that pushes the water out in line with the pump centerline. Guide vanes are used to straighten the flow of water from the impeller, and eliminate torque reaction which can cause the craft to roll during acceleration. Base gasket: The gasket used to create an airtight seal between the cylinder and the crankcase. Beginner: A rider or racer with little or no experience . Bilge: The inside bottom of a craft's hull, and the water that collects there. Bilge pump: A pump (either mechanical or electrical) to remove bilge water from the inside bottom of a craft's hull. Blue book: A book that lists craft models by year and gives a range of current value for their condition. Boarding platform: The area at the rear of a runabout or sport craft's deck, where a rider climbs on. Bond line: The imaginary line around a craft where the hull and the deck are joined together Bond flange: The overlapping mating section where the deck and hull are joined together Bore:The internal diameter of a cylinder or hole . Bow: The front or forward end of a personal watercraft. Bow eye: The hole in a bow, used to secure a craft to a trailer, boat, or dock. Bulkhead: A structural reinforcement built into a craft's hull. Bumper: The plastic padding affixed to a bond flange to provide protection in small collisions (usually well-used on PWI Senior Editor Paul Carruthers' boats). Buoy: An inflatable object used to mark a turn on a race course (or a young male child). Butterfly: A disc-shaped valve within the throat or body of a carburetor. Bypass: A fitting used to route water away from the cooling system to a visible location, to dry out the exhaust system and allow a visual inspection of the system's function Capacitor discharge ignition: A self-powered ignition which relies on the quick discharge of a capacitor to fire the spark plugs. Carbon fiber: A lightweight material composed by adding resins to graphite cloth. Often used to build race hulls. Carburetor: A device used to combine gas and air into an explosive vapor. Carburetor throat: The main passage or bore of a carburetor. Carburetor venturi: The hourglass-shaped center of certain carburetor throats. Cast: To melt metal and then pour it into a mold. Cavitation: A formation of cavities or pockets of air, which often occurs in the jet pump Center of gravity: The point in an object around which its weight is evenly balanced. Chine: A longitudinal member lying along the bottom side of the hull Choke: A valve that is used to reduce the air supply to an engine during starting Circlip: A semi-circular retaining clip used to hold the wrist pin in a piston. Clearance: The distance between two parts or surfaces. Closed-course race: A competition in which entrants race several laps around a buoy-marked track. Combustion chamber: The space in an engine where fuel is ignited and burned Compression: A reduction in the volume of gases within an engine's cylinder. Connecting rod: The metal bar that connects the piston to the crankshaft. Convergent cone: The rear, metal cone of an expansion chamber for a two-stroke exhaust system. Coupler: A part or device used to connect the crankshaft to the driveline on a personal watercraft. Course marshall: An on-water official who helps control the race and assists stopped riders on the course. Crankcase: The metal case that forms the bottom section of an engine, housing the crankshaft Crankshaft or crank: The flywheel and shaft assembly of an engine. Crankshaft axle: Either one of the two outer ends of a crankshaft. Crankshaft flywheel: The heavy wheel that is attached to a crankshaft for balance. Crankshaft journal: The bearing surface of a crank pin or crank axle. Cylinder: The chamber in which the piston travels up and down in an engine. Cylinder head: The upper part that is fitted on top of the cylinder, and houses the spark plugs. Cylinder port: An opening in a cylinder. Cylinder sleeve: The inner liner or section of a cylinder. Damper or dampener: A rubber or urethrane device that deadens or stops shocks within the driveline coupler. Deck: The upper structural body of a watercraft, located above the upper bond flange . Decibel: A measurement of the relative intensity of noise or sounds. Detonation: An improper type of explosion (usually caused by preignition) within the combustion chamber. Divergent cone: The metal cone of a two-stroke engine exhaust system (also called the “diffuser cone”). Dome: The spherical portion of a combustion chamber. Drain plug: A device of various materials constructed to block the drainage of a compartment. Drive shaft: A shaft that connects the engine to the jet pump. Dry suit: A watertight, Michelin Man-like outfit worn when riding in extremely cold conditions. Electrolyte: A solution that will conduct an electric current within a battery. Engine block: The main part of an engine. It contains the cylinders. Engine plate: What mounts the engine to the motor mounts. Exhaust manifold: The waterjacketed portion of an exhaust system that connects the head pipe to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe: A large-diameter metal tube used to carry exhaust gases, pressure waves and sound waves away from the exhaust manifold. Exhaust port: The opening in an engine through which exhaust gases exit. Exhaust valve: An electronically or mechanically controlled valve that adjusts the height of the exhaust port according to rpm or exhaust pressure. Expansion chamber: A long, metal chamber in an exhaust system. Factory: A watercraft manufacturer's headquarters. Factory racer: A competitor that is directly sponsored by a manufacturer. Factory race team: A squad of riders and technicians that is directly sponsored by a manufacturer. Factory sponsor: A company that pays money or supplies product in order to be officially affiliated with a factory team. Fiberglass: Fine, flexible filaments of glass. When combined with resin, it makes up the material used to manufacture some watercraft hulls. Flame arrestor: An air cleaner that will not permit a flame to escape through its element. Flywheel: A weighted wheel on the end of the crankshaft used to trigger the ignition system, and generate current for the battery. It also houses the ring gear used to start the engine . Flywheel magneto: A system that utilizes magnets mounted to a flywheel to produce an electrical charge Footwell: On a runabout or sport craft, the platform area where the rider's feet go. Forge: To form metal by heating it, and then hammering it into shape. Freestyle: A competition in which entrants are judged during a two-minute routine of tricks and maneuvers. Fuel filter: A device used to prevent dirt and foreign objects from passing through the fuel system. Fuel injection: A method of pumping pressurized, vaporized fuel into internal-combustion engine cylinders. Girdle kit: A set of studs that passes through the cylinder block, pulling the engine cases and the cylinder head together. Gunwale: The vertical walls that surround the tray or footwells of a personal watercraft (or a very large rifle). Handlepole: On a ski (standup craft), the pivoting arm that supports the handlebar. Head gasket: The seal that is used to join the top of an engine cylinder and the bottom of a cylinder head. Head pipe: The chamber (usually waterjacketed) that is directly connected to the exhaust manifold of an engine. Homologation: The process of officially approving, confirming or allowing a component or watercraft to compete in IJSBA events. Hull: The lower structural body of the watercraft located below (and including) the lower bond flange. Idiot light: A warning light that goes on when something in the system goes wrong (low oil level, engine overheating, etc.) (also known as a Jonnum light). Idle: The lower operating speed of an engine that is running. Ignition: A mechanism or system used to provide and control the spark that ignites the fuel vapors within an engine. Ignition coil: An induction coil that acts as a transformer in the ignition system by converting low-voltage electricity into high-voltage electricity. Ignition timing: The speed and order in which the spark is provided to the cylinders to ignite the fuel/air mixture. Ignitor: The control (brain) unit of a CD ignition system. Often referred to as the “black box”. Impeller: A propeller that resides in a pump housing and creates thrust for a personal watercraft. In-line twin: A two cylinder engine with its cylinders in a row. Intake grate or scoop grate: A grill-like component that mounts on the bottom of a hull and feeds water to the jet pump while also preventing foreign objects from entering . Intake manifold: The element of the intake system between the engine block or crankcase and the carburetor, which channels the air/fuel mixture between the two. Intake port: An opening through which the air/fuel mixture is taken into an engine. Intake stuffer: A funneling device that mounts in the intake tract to increase velocity . Intake tract: The complete system of related parts and areas involved in taking the air/fuel mixture from the carburetor into the engine (or Hain's throat). Jet pump or pump: The veined, cylindrical component which directs the flow of thrust created by the impeller. Keel: The lower-most point along the centerline of a V-shaped hull . Kill button: A button connected to a switch that stops the ignition. Labyrinth seal: A two-stroke engine crankshaft seal with staggered grooves. Lanyard: A short chord which connects from the rider to the kill button so that the engine will stop running in the event of a get off. Life jacket or life vest: A buoyant device worn by the rider to provide flotation in the event of an emergency. Also referred to as a personal flotation device (PFD). Liquid cooled: Cooled by a liquid such as coolant, water or oil. Magneto: A system consisting of a small, electrical generator that uses a magnetic field to produce electrical current . Mixed flow: A pump with an impeller in a tapered housing, where water flow has some incline to the impeller access. This adds centrifugal force to the water as it is pressurized by the water. The pump housing collects the pressurized water and directs it aft in a high-speed stream. Moto: One of two or more races which are combined to determine an overall winner. Motor mount: The rubber damper used to bolt the engine into the hull. Musclecraft: A craft which uses a large-displacement engine. Neoprene: A synthetic rubber used to make wetsuits. Oil injection: An engine lubrication system that pumps oil from a reservoir into the intake manifold or carburetor. Offshore: An endurance watercraft race which uses a long course. Paddle throttle: A wide, trigger-like hand lever, mounted to the handlebar and operated by either the finger or the thumb, which actuates the carburetor butterfly valve. Passenger: Someone on a watercraft in addition to the driver. Performance runabout: A sporty, race-oriented runabout watercraft. Personal watercraft: A vessel which uses an inboard motor powering a water jet pump as its primary source of motive power. It is designed to be operated by a person sitting, standing, or kneeling on the vessel rather than inside it. Piston: An aluminum, cylindrical piece that moves up and down in the cylinder, providing compression.. Piston ring: A round, metal piece that fits in the groove around the upper part of the piston. It creates a tight fit between the piston and the cylinder wall, which makes internal compression the engine possible. Port: The left-hand side of a craft, or an opening in an engine cylinder. Premix: A gas/oil mixture which provides lubrication to internal engine components. Pro: The highest category of personal watercraft racer. Pump nozzle or nozzle: A cone-shaped device which attaches to the back of the jet pump and pressurizes the flow of water. Qualifier or heat race: A preliminary race held to determine which riders will advance to the main event. Race gas: High-octane fuel, formulated especially for high-compression, high-rpm racing engines. Reed petal: A thin, fiber or metal plate that fits on a reed cage. The main component of a reed valve. Reed valve: A valve used for fuel/air induction into certain two-stroke engines. Reed stop: The metal portion on a reed block. Reed stuffer: A wedge-shaped device that fits into the reed cage and increases the air/fuel velocity. Resonator: A device in an exhaust system that uses reflection to mix sound waves and reduce the decibel level. Retard curve: The amount the ignition retards as the engine rpm changes. Retard timing: To set the ignition timing so that the each spark plug fires later during the piston's travel upward on the compression stroke. Rev limiter: A device which prevents the engine's rpm from going above a certain speed. Ride plate: A flat piece of metal that covers the cut-out for the pump. The craft “rides” on this plate. Ride tray or riding platform: On a stand-up craft, the platform where the rider's feet go. Runabout or sit-down: A personal watercraft that is designed for one or more people and has a seat. According to IJSBA rules, it must weigh more than 340 pounds, be shorter than 126.0 inches, and have a hull width between 38.0 and 50.0 inches. Sanction: An agreement between an organizing body and a promotor, that stipulates specific criteria to be met by the promotor in exchange for that body's support. Seizure: The grasping or binding of something. Happens to certain internal engine parts, when overheated or lacking proper lubrication. Sheet-molding compound: The material used for building the hulls of most watercraft. It is a combination of fiberglass mat and polyester resin. Ski or stand-up: A personal watercraft that is designed for one person to stand on and is controlled from a pivoting handlepole. According to IJSBA rules, a ski must weigh more than 225 pounds, be shorter than 120.0 inches long and have a hull width between 20.0 and 30.0 inches. Slalom: A watercraft competition in which entrants are clocked one at a time as they zig-zag through a buoy course. Spark plug: A device used to ignite the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. Spark plug gap: The distance between the spark plug's center electrode and its side electrode. Sponson A special planing surface which may be integrated or attached to the hull's sides or transom. Sport: Personal watercraft which are designed for one or more people and have a seat. They can be ridden in either the sit-down or stand-up body position. According to IJSBA rules, a sport craft must be greater than 250 pounds, less than 120 inches long, and have a width between 26.0 and 38.0 inches. Spring suit: A wetsuit that features short legs and short sleeves, for riding in hot weather. Staging area: The area near the starting line where personal watercraft and their riders wait for their scheduled race. Starboard: The righthand side of a personal watercraft. Starter motor: An electric motor used for starting a watercraft engine. Steering cable: The cable used to connect the steering system (handlebar) with the steering nozzle. Steering nozzle: The portion of the pump which pivots left and right to control the direction of thrust and steer the watercraft. Steering stem: The rotating shaft to which the handlebar mounts. Stern: The rear, aft end of a personal watercraft. Stinger: The small-diameter rear section of an expansion chamber. Strake: A continuous ridge which extends along much of the length of a hull's bottom. It is used to improve tracking and cornering, as well as providing lift. Tech inspector: The person who checks all competing watercraft for rule compliance and eligibility. Three-seater: A sit-down runabout craft designed to carry three people. Throttle: Any valve used to regulate the flow of air/fuel to an engine. Throttle cable: The cable used to connect a throttle lever to the carburetor's throttle-valve linkage. Thumb throttle: A throttle-actuating lever mounted on the handlebar and operated with the thumb. Top loader: A type of intake grate that utilizes a wedge perpendicular to the grate's parallel bars, in order to scoop more water up into the top half of the pump. This loads the pump more evenly. Total-loss ignition: A watercraft electrical system with no charging system to recover electricity. It receives its electrical supply from the battery, which must be charged periodically. Tote: A balloon-tired cart used to transport watercraft short distances and across rugged terrain. Traction mat: A thin, rubber material bonded to the footwells, ride tray or boarding platform of a watercraft. Traction pad: A thick, rubber material bonded to the footwells, ride tray or boarding platform of a watercraft. Transfer port: An opening in the engine cylinder of a two-stroke watercraft engine, used to transfer the air/fuel mixture from the crankcase to the combustion chamber. Transom: The vertical, rear portion of the hull, which connects the sides and the bottom. Trigger pickup: On a total-loss ignition, the magnet-activated mechanism which signals the ignition coil to fire. Trigger throttle: A finger-actuated lever mounted to the handlebar and used to actuate the throttle valve. Trim: The up-and-down movement of the pump nozzle, which can change the hull's attitude. Triple cylinder: A watercraft engine with three cylinders. Twin cylinder: A watercraft engine with two cylinders. Two-seater: A sit-down runabout personal watercraft designed to carry two people. Two-stroke engine: A watercraft engine that draws an air/fuel mixture into its crankcase for primary compression. This happens as the piston travels upward to compress the already-transferred air/fuel mixture. Secondary compression, ignition and power result. On the downward stroke, the exhaust port is open, followed by the opening of the transfer ports. This action transfers the mixture from the crankcase to the combustion chamber. Velocity stack: A metal cylinder with a flare on its outer end, that is installed in the mouths of certain carburetors to make better use of air velocity. Waterbox: The final portion of a watercraft exhaust system, which mixes water and sound waves to muffle the exhaust noise. Waterjacket: A cavity and/or passage that allows liquid to pass in and around a designated area (for example, coolant in a watercraft engine circulates through a waterjacket). Wetsuit: A neoprene rubber outfit worn when riding in cold conditions. Wrist pin: The pin that allows the piston to pivot on the connecting rod. A or a: Ampere(s) or amperage. ABDC: After bottom dead center. AC: Alternating current. ACV: Alternating current voltage. AH: Ampere hour(s). APBA: American Power Boat Association. ATDC: After top dead center. Amp hr: Ampere hour(s). BBDC: Before bottom dead center. BDC: Bottom dead center. BIA: Boating Industry Association. BNG: Bold new graphics. BTDC: Before top dead center. cc: Cubic centimeter(s). Carb: Carburetor. CDI: Capacitor discharge ignition. CG: Center of gravity. dB: Decibel DC: Direct current. DCV: Direct current voltage. DNR: Did not race. DNQ: Did not qualify. DNF: Did not finish. DQ: Disqualified. Dyno: Dynamometer. ECU: Electronic control unit. EPA: Environmental Protection Agency. FRP: Fiberglass reinforced plastic. fl oz: - Fluid ounce(s). HIN: Hull identification number. HP: Horsepower. IJSBA: International Jet Sports Boating Association. IMTEC: International Marine Trades Exhibit and Convention. LCQ: Last chance qualifier. mm: Millimeter. mph: Miles per hour. OE: Original equipment. OEM: Original equipment manufacturer. oz: Ounce(s). PFD: Personal flotation device. PSI: Pounds per square inch. PWC: Personal watercraft. PWI: Personal Watercraft Illustrated. PWIA: Personal Watercraft Industry Association. qt: Quart(s). R/A: Runabout. R&D;: Research and development. rpm: Revolution(s) per minute. SAE: Society of Automotive engineers. SMC: Sheet-molded compound . TDC: Top dead center. V: Volt(s); voltage. VE: Volumetric efficiency. WFO: Wide #*&@$% open. WFQ: World finals qualifier. In this article, we will discuss the basic requirements for the periodic maintenance and inspection of personal watercraft. Neglecting the care of your craft can lead to lower performance, decreased resale value, and unnecessary repair costs. By following these simple steps, you can ensure that your craft will perform better, last longer, and maintain its value.
Before you venture onto the waterways, it's essential to perform a pre-ride inspection. Begin by examining the jet-pump assembly for any loose bolts or attachments that may be broken. Check the pump vanes and impeller by looking directly inside the steering nozzle for any chipped, bent, or broken blades. Also, make sure that the pump housing is clean and free of any debris. Inspect the intake grate for any debris and remove any foreign matter found. Verify that the drain plug is in place and secured. Next, test the handlebars and ensure that there is no binding hindrance to the steering mechanism. The bars should turn smoothly in either direction. Examine and test the throttle lever and check for any kinks or a cracked throttle-lever housing. Lubricate the cable and check for any loose bolts, broken pins, or clips. Your lanyard is your key, and it's essential to ensure that it's working correctly. Check that the wristband or clip is not worn or broken, and test the lanyard by starting the personal watercraft and pulling it to ensure that it's working correctly. A working fire extinguisher is required by federal law. Carefully inspect the condition of the cap on your fire extinguisher compartment and check that the seal is not broken. Examine the extinguisher and make sure that it has not been exhausted. If it's exhausted or you're not sure, replace it. Lastly, check the choke knob and fuel petcock to ensure that they are working correctly and are not frozen or malfunctioning. Inspect the fuel lines and cooling hoses and make sure that each end of every line is properly connected with a clamp or zip tie. Check that there are no kinks or cracks in the hoses. By following these simple steps, you can ensure that your personal watercraft is well-maintained and performing at its best. Bobby Boop Jet Ski Parts .Biz Introduction:Jet skis are thrilling and exhilarating vehicles that require regular maintenance and occasional repairs. To ensure that your jet ski is performing at its best, it's important to invest in high-quality jet ski parts. In this blog post, we'll discuss the top jet ski parts you need for maximum performance.
Conclusion:By investing in high-quality jet ski parts and performing regular maintenance, you can ensure that your jet ski is performing at its best and providing you with the maximum amount of fun on the water. Be sure to choose reputable brands and consult with a qualified professional if you have any questions or concerns about jet ski maintenance and repairs. With the right parts and care, you can enjoy your jet ski to the fullest. Bobby Boop
JetSkiParts.Biz Kawasaki 800SXR
ngine: Two-stroke, two-cylinder with crankcase reed valve induction Displacement: 782cc Horsepower: 80 @ 6,250 rpm Broke x stroke: 82.0 x 74.0mm Compression ratio: 7.2:1 Cooling system: Inducted water Carburetion: Twin BN40 Mikuni Lubrication: Premix Ignition: Digital CDI Starting: Electric Propulsion system: Jet pump, axial-flow, single stage Thrust: 628 lbs. Fuel tank capacity: 4.8 gal. Overall length: 89.8 in. Overall width: 29.6 in. Overall height: 27.6 in. Dry weight: 351 lbs. Color: Jet White/Candy Lime Green, Jet White/Candy Persimmon Red ULTRA130 Engine: Two-stroke, three-cylinder with crankcase reed valve induction Displacement: 1,176cc Horsepower: 145 @ 7,000 rpm Bore x stroke: 80.0 x 78.0mm Compression ratio: 5.8:1 Cooling system: Inducted water Carburetion: Triple Keihin CDCV40 with single fuel pump Lubrication: Variable-rate Superlube oil injection Ignition: Digital DC-CDI with K-TRIC Starting: Electric Propulsion system: Jet pump, mixed-flow, single stage Thrust: 904 lbs. Fuel capacity: 15.3 gal. Oil tank capacity: 1.2 gal. Overall length: 113.8 in. Overall width: 44.4 in. Overall height: 40.5 in. Storage capacity: 6.5 gal. Dry weight: 613 lbs. Colors: Jet White/Candy Lime Green Ultra 150 Engine: Two-stroke, three-cylinder with crankcase reed valve induction Displacement: 1,176cc Horsepower: 145 @ 7,000 rpm Bore x stroke: 80.0 x 78.0mm Compression ratio: 5.8:1 Cooling system: Inducted water Carburetion: Triple Keihin CDCV40 with single fuel pump Lubrication: Variable-rate Superlube oil injection Ignition: Digital DC-CDI with K-TRIC Starting: Electric Propulsion system: Jet pump, mixed-flow, single stage Thrust: 904 lbs. Fuel capacity: 15.3 gal. Oil tank capacity: 1.2 gal. Overall length: 113.8 in. Overall width: 44.4 in. Overall height: 40.5 in. Storage capacity: 6.5 gal. Dry weight: 613 lbs. Colors: Jet White/Candy Lime Green STX-12F engine: Four-stroke, four-cylinder inline Displacement: 1,199cc Horsepower: 125 @ 7,000 rpm Bore x stroke: 83.0 x 55.4mm Compression ratio: 11.2:1 Induction: Electronic fuel injection Ignition: TCBI with digital advance Cooling system: Inducted water Coupling: Direct drive from engine Propulsion system: Jet pump, axial-flow, single stage Thrust: 827 lbs. Fuel capacity: 16.4 gal. Overall length: 122.8 in. Overall width: 46.5 in. Overall height: 40.2 in. Storage capacity: 23.5 gal. Dry weight: 737 lbs. Color: Jet White/Pearl Chateau Gray STX15F Engine: Four-stroke, four-cylinder inline Displacement: 1,498cc Horsepower: 160 Bore x stroke: 83.0 x 69.2mm Compression ratio: 10.6:1 Induction: Digital fuel injection Ignition: TCBI with digital advance Cooling system: Inducted water Coupling: Direct drive from engine Propulsion system: Jet pump, axial-flow, single stage Thrust: 959 lbs. Fuel capacity: 16.4 gal. Overall length: 122.8 in. Overall width: 46.5 in. Overall height: 41.3 in. Storage capacity: 23.5 gal. Dry weight: 743 lbs. Color: Jet White/Candy Persimmon Red/Black STXR Engine: Two-stroke, three-cylinder with crankcase and reed valve induction Displacement: 1,176cc Horsepower: 145 @ 7,000 rpm Bore x stroke: 80.0 x 78.0mm Compression ratio: 5.8:1 Cooling system: Inducted water Carburetion: Triple Keihin CDCV40 with single fuel pump Lubrication: Variable-rate Superlube oil injection Ignition: Digital DC-CDI with K-TRIC Starting: Electric Propulsion system: Jet pump, axial-flow, single stage Thrust: 904 lbs. Fuel capacity: 16.4 gal. Oil tank capacity: 1.3 gal. Overall length: 122.8 in. Overall width: 46.5 in. Overall height: 40.2 in. Dry weight: 639 lbs. Color: Jet White/Candy Lime Green 2023Â Introducing the Ultimate Jet Ski: Faster, Sleeker, and More Powerful Than Ever Before4/11/2023 GOOD TIMES™ ON THE WATER WITH THE 2023 KAWASAKI JET SKI® WATERCRAFT MODEL RANGEKawasaki is the go-to brand for anyone looking to add some serious excitement to their water adventures! Whether you're looking for the ultimate thrill ride or simply want to relax and cruise around, Kawasaki's lineup of personal watercraft has something for everyone. The 2023 Kawasaki Jet Ski® lineup features a range of models designed to make a splash on the water. From the stand-up Jet Ski SX-R 160 to the world-renowned Jet Ski STX 160 series, each model boasts top-of-the-line features and unbeatable performance that will leave you breathless.  If you're looking for a stand-up personal watercraft that's both fun and accessible, the Jet Ski SX-R 160 is the way to go. Featuring a V-shape hull and a 1498cc 4-stroke engine that produces plenty of low-to-mid-range torque, the Jet Ski SX-R 160 delivers powerful thrust and agile rider-active handling that's perfect for weekend fun or racing competitively. And with its long and wide hull, even beginners can enjoy stable and thrilling rides. The Jet Ski SX-R 160 is available in an Ebony/Lime Green colorway and has an MSRP of $11,399.  For those who want to take their water adventures to the next level, the Jet Ski Ultra 310 series is sure to impress. With a liquid-cooled, supercharged, in-line 4-cylinder, 1,498cc engine and digital fuel injection, this series delivers unbeatable power and precision handling that's perfect for any riding condition. With four power modes to choose from, riders can select the one that suits their skill level and riding conditions. And with features like Kawasaki Launch Control Mode (KLCM) and Kawasaki Smart Reverse with Deceleration (KSRD), navigating tight spots and accelerating quickly has never been easier. The Jet Ski Ultra® 310 series also boasts a 7” TFT instrumentation with Bluetooth® connectivity and plenty of storage space with a 32.8 gallon front storage area and 10.6 gallons of storage on both the left and right sides of the unit. Choose from the 3-passenger supercharged Jet Ski Ultra 310X in an Ebony/Metallic Electric Turquoise colorway with an MSRP of $17,999 or the Jet Ski® Ultra 310LX-S in an Ebony/Lime Green colorway with an MSRP of $18,999, which includes an exclusive ULTRA Deck with an extended rear deck and 7.9 inches of additional staging platform for water play and storing gear. The Jet Ski® Ultra®310LX offers luxury and style with an incomparable seat and sound system. Featuring the industry-first 3-position ERGO-FIT® adjustable LXury seat for comfortable cruising for up to three people, JETSOUND® 4s, the first standard-equipment 4-speaker integrated audio system feature with jog-dial control and Bluetooth® connectivity featured on a personal watercraft, and an Ebony/Metallic Shadow Gold colorway, the Jet Ski® Ultra®310LX is sure to turn heads. It has an MSRP of $19,999.  Last but not least, the Jet Ski STX 160 series offers a comfortable and exciting three-seat personal watercraft that appeals to a wide range of riders. With a DOHC, 16-valve, parallel 4-cylinder and 1498cc engine, a balanced hull, ergonomic riding position, large fuel tank and storage compartment, along with several easy-to-use rider aid functions, the Jet Ski STX160 series is the perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the water in comfort Bobby Boop
JetSki Parts Wondering about the current pricing of these high-performance watercrafts? We have got you covered!
The price of a Kawasaki jet ski in 2023 ranges from $11,399 to $20,299, depending on the model you choose. The entry-level model is the STX 160, priced between $11,399 and $13,699, while the top-of-the-line model is the ULTRA 310 LX, with a price range of $18,299 to $20,299. The average price for a Kawasaki jet ski is around $15,300. For those looking for a sporty yet affordable option, the 2023 Kawasaki SX-R 160 is priced at $11,599. If you're looking for a little more power, you can opt for the STX-160, which has a range of prices depending on the features you choose. It's important to keep in mind that prices may vary depending on location and dealer. Additionally, accessories and add-ons may increase the final cost of your jet ski purchase. When it comes to purchasing a Kawasaki jet ski, it's important to research and compare prices to find the best deal for your needs and budget. With various models and price points available, you're sure to find a Kawasaki jet ski that meets your needs and provides endless hours of fun on the water. |
 Magazine For Jet Ski & PWC NewsContact us for submitting Jet Ski news, Jetski club, manufacture, parts, vintage jet ski or event info. Categories
All
Archives
February 2024
|
RSS Feed
Company
|
Stores |
A division of Inland Jet Sports Group
|
Order / Questions? Call Us Tues-Fri: 10am - 5pm 1-909-271-2223
|
Site Design By Aggressive Pro
|
2024 © JETSKIPARTS.BIZ
|