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Winter Maintenance for Your Jet Ski: A Guide by Jetskiparts.biz
Introduction As winter creeps in, jet ski enthusiasts know it's time to say goodbye to those thrilling rides on the water. But before you store your beloved jet ski for the colder months, it's essential to ensure that it's properly winterized to protect your investment and keep it in optimal condition. At Jetskiparts.biz, we understand the importance of maintaining your watercraft, and in this article, we'll guide you through the winterization process and offer valuable insights into how we can help you find the right parts for your jet ski. Winterizing Your Jet Ski Proper winterization is crucial to safeguard your jet ski from the harsh winter elements and prevent any potential damage. Here's a comprehensive guide to winterizing your jet ski:
Finding the Right Parts At Jetskiparts.biz, we understand the significance of using high-quality parts and accessories to keep your jet ski in peak condition. Whether you need replacement impellers, spark plugs, filters, or any other part for your jet ski, we have you covered. Here's how we can assist you:
Conclusion Winterizing your jet ski is a vital step in protecting your investment and ensuring it runs smoothly when you're ready to hit the water again. By following the steps mentioned above and relying on Jetskiparts.biz for all your jet ski part needs, you can confidently face the colder months, knowing that your watercraft is in good hands. When spring returns, you'll be all set to enjoy countless thrilling rides on your jet ski. Bobby Boop Editor JetSkiParts.Biz
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Accurately tuning a Jet Ski carburetor requires a basic understanding of its functions and adhering to a few basic rules. Most importantly, you can only expect the carb to work as well as your engine does; the performance of your carb cannot make up for a weak or worn out engine. Another point to stress here is that you may not be able to achieve maximum performance from your watercraft simply by changing jets in the carb. A mismatch of engine components and or porting may create a carburetion nightmare. The best advise is to use quality parts and service from reputable dealers. To achieve an accurate calibration with a carb you should adjust the tuneable circuits in the following order:
1. LOW SPEED ADJUSTER -To adjust a smooth idle 2. POP-OFF PRESSURE -Just off idle to 1/4 throttle in conjunction with the low speed jet. 3. LOW SPEED JET -Just off idle to 1/3 throttle. 4. HIGH SPEED JET - 1/3 to 3/4 throttle. 5. HIGH SPEED ADJUSTER -3/4 to wide open throttle. The reason for adjusting the circuits in this order is because several circuits contribute to the total fuel delivery of the carb. Changing the low speed jet for example, affects wide open throttle fuel delivery to some degree The exceptions to the rule are the low speed adjuster and the regulator portion: the low speed adjuster has no effect past 1/3 throttle. The regulator portion has no tuning effect past 1/4 throttle, although it continues to control the fuel supply. IDLE STOP SCREW The idle stop screw is used to adjust the idle speed (rpm) by opening or closing the throttle valve. refer to your watercraft owners manual for the correct idle speed. As a rule of thumb, adjust the idle speed to approximately 1100 rpm. LOW SPEED ADJUSTER The low speed adjuster is used in conjunction with the idle stop screw to adjust and maintain idle speed and smoothness. Experiment turning the low speed adjuster in and out in small increments until a smooth idle is obtained. As the idle stop screw is turned in our out to raise or lower idle speed the low speed mixture is also affected. For clarification, if the idle stop screw is turned out to lower idle speed, this action increases manifold pressure slightly and richens the low speed mixture so that a mixture adjustment may be required. The low speed adjuster is very sensitive and adjustments should be made in small increments only. Note: Remember, the low speed adjuster is only for adjusting the idle mixture. If you use the adjuster to help get rid of a low speed hesitation, you will probably find that your engine will load up in no wake zones, or after extended idling. POP-OFF PRESSURE AND LOW SPEED JET How do pop-off pressure and the low speed jet work together? These two circuits overlap, although the low speed jet continues past 1/4 throttle where pop-off pressure has little to no effect. In general, if your pop-off is slightly too high, you can compensate by increasing the size of the low speed jet. The opposite is also true; if the low speed jet is slightly too small, you can compensate with less pop-off pressure. Once you get to the point where you think each is adjusted correctly, it's best to try varying the two to make certain you have the best combination. For example: If you have pop-off pressure of 30 psi and a 67.5 low speed jet, you should also try a pop-off of say 35 psi and a 70 low speed jet. To verify that you have the correct combination there are two things to test: 1. Throttle response should be crisp, with no hesitation. 2. Ride the boat at a constant 1/4 throttle opening for about 1 minute and then quickly open the throttle fully, there should be no hesitation and the engine should not show signs of being loaded up. If it hesitates, it's lean; if it's loaded up, it's rich. The first test is to check pop-off pressure, the second test is checking the correctness of the low speed jet size. Take the time to ride the boat slowly and thoroughly test your jetting changes. After a jet change, it takes the engine a few minutes of use to completely respond to the change. When does it become necessary to adjust pop-off? When personal watercraft come from the factory they have fairly high pop-off due to the fact that they also have somewhat restrictive air intake systems that cause the engine to generate very high manifold pressures; the higher the manifold pressures, the higher the pop-off pressure required to properly regulate the fuel delivery to the engine. As you modify or change your watercraft's flame arrestor to a less restrictive type you will most likely start to experience a lean hesitation caused by a decrease in manifold pressure. This change will require an adjustment in pop-off pressure to regain crisp throttle response. Because most aftermarket flame arrestors are less restrictive than stock, you will need to decrease pop-off to compensate. The Super BN carbs that come from Mikuni America are already set up for performance applications, and come with pop-off settings lower than the carbs that come as original equipment. Pop-off pressure, (the regulator portion of the Super BN) is a tuneable component of the Super BN and works in conjunction with the low speed jet for good initial throttle response. The components that make up the regulator portion of the Super BN are: 1. Needle Valve, available in 4 sizes, 1.5, 2.0, 2.3 and 2.5 (Note: Some OEM carbs have 1.2) 2. Arm Spring, available in 4 sizes, 115gr., 95gr., 80gr. And 65 gr. 3. Arm 4. Regulator Diaphragm The arm has a limited range of adjustment; from the arm being level with the adjacent carb surface to being bent upwards no more than .040" (1mm) above that surface. If the arm is bent upwards too much, it can cause the needle valve to be held open when the diaphragm and cover are installed. If the arm is bent down, its movement becomes limited and may not be enough to allow the needle valve to open fully. ADJUSTING POP-OFF PRESSURE Pop-off pressure is adjusted by replacing the arm spring with one of a different gram rating. Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired pop-off pressure, it is also necessary to change the needle valve size; keep in mind that it's always best to use the smallest needle valve size to obtain the correct pop-off pressure. MEASURING POP-OFF PRESSURE You can measure pop-off pressure with a "pop-off" pump, available from Mikuni through your dealer. CHECKING POP-OFF WITH A POP-OFF PUMP 1. Attach the pump to the fuel inlet nipple. 2. Cover, or in some way plug the fuel return nipple. 3. Remove the regulator diaphragm to observe the needle valve. 4. During testing, it is important to obtain consistent readings. To accomplish this, it is necessary to keep the needle valve wet. Use WD-40 or something similar to wet the needle valve. Note: Don't use gasoline because of the fire hazard. Protect your eyes from the spray when the needle pops open. 5. Pressurize the carb with the pump until the needle valve pops open, being careful to note the indicated pressure. Test the valve 3 times to assure an accurate reading. An indication that your pop-off needs to be adjusted is a lean hesitation when you open the throttle from idle; in the extreme, the engine may even die. It is much easier to detect a lean pop-off than it is a rich one, so it is wise to adjust your pop-off until you get it too lean and then back up until the lean hesitation disappears. Note: It is recommended that you do not use too large a needle valve for your application. Many tuners recommend using 2.3 or 2.5 needle valve in all cases. Actually, we recommend using the smallest needle valve that gives you the correct pop-off pressure for your engine. A 1.5 needle valve can flow the maximum amount of fuel that the Super BN can pump, so the only reason to use a larger needle valve is to obtain the correct needle valve and arm spring combination (pop-off) for your watercraft. HIGH SPEED JET/THROTTLE POSITION AND JETTING The high speed jet begins contributing fuel at about 3/8 throttle, overlapping the low speed jet. The high speed jet is the primary tuning component from ½ to 3/4 throttle. As you have probably noticed, tuning circuit operations are denoted in fractions of throttle openings.. the reason for this is simple: Carb jetting does not relate to engine rpm or the boat's speed, it only recognizes how far the throttle has been opened; each circuit of the carb responds in turn. This is why it's very important, when trying to diagnose a carb problem, that you identify at which throttle opening the problem occurs, in order to adjust the appropriate circuit. The procedure for testing for the correct high speed jet size is the same as for the low speed, except that you should now hold the throttle at a constant ½ open for one minute, then quickly open the throttle fully to check engine response. If the engine hesitates, the carb is lean. If the engine takes a second or two to clear out and then accelerate, the carb is too rich. In either case, make the appropriate jet change and do the complete test again. HIGH SPEED ADJUSTER The high speed adjuster is the last circuit to adjust. It primarily controls fuel delivery from 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle. Turning the screw clockwise reduces fuel flow, counter clockwise increases fuel flow. The maximum fuel flow is achieved at three turns out from closed. To test the high speed adjuster it is recommended that you start with a fresh set of spark plugs to get quicker plug readings. Unless you have an exhaust gas temperature gauge, you will have to rely on plug readings. You will need to be in an area where you can hold the throttle wide open for several minutes (Factory Pipe suggests that you only do this for about 30 seconds, longer times with a lean setting could cause engine damage) then chop the throttle and stop the engine just prior to removing the plugs to read them. Ideally, you're looking for a nice brown color on the electrode Another indicator of proper adjustment is a maximum rpm reading on a tachometer. If the carb is lean or rich, it won't pull as high an rpm reading as when it's right on. PERFORMANCE TIPS The "Left Turn Syndrome" You will find in all instances that your watercraft will turn more easily to the right than to the left. The reasons are basically simple. First, engine torque constantly places pressure on the hull to turn right. If your engine's performance is marginal, you can notice a dramatic falloff in power in a hard turn. This power falloff can't always be blamed on the engine, being over-propped can also cause the engine to slow enough to fall off its power peak. An engine with a peaky power curve is especially susceptible to a very dramatic power loss in a hard left turn. Most recently, with the increase of Sport and Runabout racing, there has been a marked improvement in hull design with a dramatic increase in "G" forces encountered while turning: over 2.5 G's. In some instances such a hard turn can cause momentary loss of power due to fuel starvation in the carbs. Jetting changes cannot correct this situation, the best solution is to rotate the mounting of the carbs 90 deg, so that their throttle shafts are perpendicular to the crankshaft axis rather that parallel. To date, this solution to the problem has been 100% successful. Fuel Dripping From The Inner Venturi At Idle This situation occurs periodically and is easy to cure. What causes this problem is a combination of two things. First, low pop-off pressure (due to installation of a 2.5 needle valve with a light spring pressure) together with an engine that has substantial vibration at idle. The engine vibration causes the needle valve to leak, which causes the engine to run even rougher. You can view this occurrence by carefully looking into the throat of the carb at idle, you will be able to see fuel dripping from the inner venturi. In this same way you can also check to see that the problem is corrected. The cure for the problem is to increase pop-off pressure until the dripping stops. Engine Hesitation When Accelerating After a High Speed Deceleration You may find it desirable to increase the number of anti-siphon valves (part# BN34/107), If you ride very fast and find that you have a noticeable stumble when reopening the throttle after a long, high speed deceleration. This is caused by excess fuel in the carb. The engine revs fairly high while decelerating, but it uses very little fuel. The fuel pump still pulses hard, but there is no demand for the fuel. A small amount of fuel will overfill the fuel chamber, leak through the high speed circuit and get deposited on top of the closed throttle valve. This fuel causes a momentary rich condition when the throttle is reopened. The solution is to use one or two additional anti-siphon valves. Never use more than two extra, and recheck your calibration after installing any extra valves; in some cases extra valves can adversely affect throttle response. Carburetor info courtesy of Mikuni. For a complete Mikuni Super BN Owners Manual send $5.00 to: Mikuni American Corporation / 8910 Mikuni Ave / Northridge, CA 91324. In this article, we will discuss the basic requirements for the periodic maintenance and inspection of personal watercraft. Neglecting the care of your craft can lead to lower performance, decreased resale value, and unnecessary repair costs. By following these simple steps, you can ensure that your craft will perform better, last longer, and maintain its value.
Before you venture onto the waterways, it's essential to perform a pre-ride inspection. Begin by examining the jet-pump assembly for any loose bolts or attachments that may be broken. Check the pump vanes and impeller by looking directly inside the steering nozzle for any chipped, bent, or broken blades. Also, make sure that the pump housing is clean and free of any debris. Inspect the intake grate for any debris and remove any foreign matter found. Verify that the drain plug is in place and secured. Next, test the handlebars and ensure that there is no binding hindrance to the steering mechanism. The bars should turn smoothly in either direction. Examine and test the throttle lever and check for any kinks or a cracked throttle-lever housing. Lubricate the cable and check for any loose bolts, broken pins, or clips. Your lanyard is your key, and it's essential to ensure that it's working correctly. Check that the wristband or clip is not worn or broken, and test the lanyard by starting the personal watercraft and pulling it to ensure that it's working correctly. A working fire extinguisher is required by federal law. Carefully inspect the condition of the cap on your fire extinguisher compartment and check that the seal is not broken. Examine the extinguisher and make sure that it has not been exhausted. If it's exhausted or you're not sure, replace it. Lastly, check the choke knob and fuel petcock to ensure that they are working correctly and are not frozen or malfunctioning. Inspect the fuel lines and cooling hoses and make sure that each end of every line is properly connected with a clamp or zip tie. Check that there are no kinks or cracks in the hoses. By following these simple steps, you can ensure that your personal watercraft is well-maintained and performing at its best. Bobby Boop Jet Ski Parts .Biz START EARLEY: “It’s a good idea to get your ski out of storage a little early and start it up. If you’re taking it to a dealer to be summarized or get some repairs, try to do it before the summer, when dealers tend to get overwhelmed.
WARM UP: Coax your PWC out of hibernation. If you stored your Jet Ski with some fuel in the tank and did not use a fuel stabilizer, condition the fuel by adding a conditioner like Pennzoil’s Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer. However, if you experience a no start and the fuel seems stale, then take your pwc to a qualified technician where trained technicians are equipped to drain and dispose of fuel. MAINTAIN LUBRICATIONS: If you own a 4 Stroke engine, and didn’t do it last fall, now’s a good time to change the engine oil and filter, and drain and replace pump oil. You will also want to add grease to all grease fittings to keep bearings and seals lubed. For those of you who own 2 strokes, top off the oil reserve with fresh two-cycle oil, then drain and replace pump oil. You would want to grease fittings too. SECURE LOOSE ENDS: Check for loose wires. Check throttle and trim cables to make sure they work properly. CHARGE YOUR BATTERY: Charge and reinstall the battery. These tip will help you get a good start to summer fun. By Bobby Boop Know The Rules.
Personal watercraft (PWCs) are targets for new laws and restrictions. The best way to change the PWC “bad-boy” image is to respect other boaters around you by following the laws. Start by knowing the “Rules of the Road,” a code that every boater is legally required to follow. Not only are there safety requirements, but the rules also extend into the realm of boating etiquette. They tell you how to signal and pass other vessels, which boat has the right of way, and how to read aids to navigation. Chances are your state has its own set of PWC rules. For instance, Rhode Island requires state residents to have a PWC license in order to promote safe, courteous riding. There are also local rules concerning PWC operation. Know Your Machine. Depending on how much noise and smoke they emit, some watercraft are considered “ruder” than others — old carbureted 2-strokes are considered the height of rudeness. If you’re one of the majority of riders using a carbureted 2-stroke PWC, the key is to keep your watercraft well-maintained for minimal smoke emission (there’s probably not much you can do about noise). Manufacturers have been addressing both smoke and noise pollution with a new breed of low-decibel 4-strokes. The good news is that within a few years, carbureted technology will be a thing of the past, so many of the big complaints against PWCs will go up in smoke. Know Yourself. You also need to develop your own riding skills to promote safety and courtesy. They include learning to use the throttle and steering properly (many beginners let go of the throttle when they’re heading at another boat or obstacle, thus losing steerage), practicing high-speed stopping and steering maneuvers, and scanning the horizon constantly for other boats. This includes common-sense maneuvers like slowing down or avoiding anchored boats, not waking or splashing other boaters, and not doing hour-long doughnuts in front of other boats or waterfront homes. The key is to be aware of others while on the water. Accidents can happen in the blink of an eye. Know The Area. Besides being polite to other boaters, there are real and perceived problems associated with PWC and habitat destruction. In fact, that was one of the main arguments for PWC bans in national parks last summer. A little awareness for environmental concerns can go a long way. So, stay clear of nesting grounds and fragile ecosystems. Also, keep your eyes posted for swimmers. Areas around coves and docks can fill up quickly with people who might want to take a dip, so before you decide to gun it, scan the area for potential problems. As far as the wakes go, just apply the golden rule of PWCs — splash unto others as you would like them to splash unto you. By Bobby Boop When the weather outside gets chilly, it's important to take proper care of your watercraft to make sure it is in shape for when the water gets warmer and it's time to ride the waves again.
Winterizing your PWC will help protect it against the off-season elements during storage and get you on the water sooner when the riding season starts. If you don't take your Jet Ski, Sea Doo or Waverunner into a professional shop for winterization, here are a few tips on how you can do it yourself and save a little money in the process. (Be sure to read your owner's manual and all product instructions for proper safety and maintenance information.) Drain the engine Get ready to store your personal watercraft for the off-season months right after you take your final ride of the season. The first thing you'll want to do when you take your PWC out of the water is drain the water from the engine. The best place to do this is right at the loading dock when the craft is out of the water and the trailer is tilted so the stern is lower than the bow. Start the engine a few times letting it run for no more than 30 seconds to prevent the engine from overheating. While the engine is running, turn the handle back and forth. This drains any excess water out of the engine. Clean It Up Take extra care to thoroughly clean your PWC one last time. Wash down the exterior of the craft using the same kind of soap that you would use to wash your car. It might take some extra elbow grease to remove all the build-up, but removing the algae and grime now will be much easier than trying to clean it off after the storing period. When you're finished cleaning make sure there is no water in the hull, and the interior and exterior of the watercraft are completely dry. For extra protection on the exterior, finish your wash with a wax job and use a light coat of multi-purpose lube to coat any metal surfaces such as latches and hooks. Gas It Up Fill up the gas tank to prevent condensation over the storing period. Top off the fuel tank with the appropriate amount of gas stabilizer, according to the instructions on the container. Using stabilizer prevents the gas from getting gummy, which can eventually clog the carburetors and make for a messy problem. Start up the engine a few times for no more than 30 seconds. This not only allows the stabilizer to work its way through the engine and the carburetors but will drain any excess water out of the engine as well. Remember to be cautious of where you store the PWC with a full gas tank since gas is extremely flammable. Storage near any heat source or source of sparks is very dangerous. Oil It The next step is to spray fogging oil through the carburetors and spark plug cylinders. Begin by removing the air cleaners. This will allow you to spray the oil directly into the carburetor throat. Start the engine and spray the fogging oil into the throat of both carburetors while it is idling. Continue spraying until the engine stalls and then replace the air cleaners. Next remove the spark plugs, making sure the wires are grounded, and spray fogging oil into each hole for a couple seconds. Place a rag over the holes and push the start button of the craft. This will not start the engine but will allow the oil to coat and disperse internally. Clean any oil that may have dripped and then reinstall the spark plugs. Remove the battery Check your battery and battery chargers for specific safety instructions. Remove the battery by first disconnecting the negative terminal followed by the positive terminal. Store the battery indoors in a warm place such as a shed or garage. We do not recommend storing the battery in your house, as it can give off dangerous fumes. If the battery case is older, place the battery on a rubber mat for storage. Placing an older battery on concrete may cause the battery to conduct a current and eventually discharge it. Attach the battery to a trickle charger and remember to check the battery water level every month throughout the storage period. Storage Because your craft will have a full tank of gas, remember to be cautious about the location that it will rest. Put your trailer in a level position in the place where you intend to store the craft. The best way to prevent flat or corrupted trailer tires over the storing season is to take the tires off, store them indoors and use concrete blocks or a jack to hold the trailer in position. If you choose to leave the tires on, cover them with tarps or durable plastic bags. To prevent rotting, place boards under the tires if the ground is gravel or dirt. Once the trailer is in place, unlatch the seat of the PWC to allow air to circulate through and prevent any moisture from being trapped inside. Place steel wool or a rag inside the exhaust to prevent any animals or bugs from nesting there. Finally, place your cover over your PWC to keep it clean and protected while it's being stored. If you follow these simple winterizing instruction you will have a longer lasting life of your Jet Ski, Sea Doo or Waverunner. By Bobby Boop Our Jet ski impeller solutions for your kawasaki watercraft to increase performance. We offer the PRO Jet ski impeller which will give a better take off and more speed plus it is half the cost. Also We can repair and/our modify your original jet ski impeller for better performance at a fraction of the cost of new. These 2 impeller solutions will get you back on the water and jet skiing in no time. Contact us to see which solution works better for you!
Never jumpstart your Jet Ski Sea Doo or Waverunner from a car.You never want to Jumpstart your jet ski from a car as the cars have to much amps.. You could fry your brain, cdi, or mpm which are big bucks... Be sure to start the season with a good battery or invest in a trickle charger to help you maintain your battery all year..
Jet Ski Tech Tip: Sitting SkiIf your Jet Ski has been sitting for a while ( 4+months) 1st put a charge or change battery, A battery tender will help keep your battery maintained during off season. 2nd You will then want to replace gas with some fresh gas. 3rd try and start it. If it does not start contact us for tech support. Remember to perform yearly maintenance on your Jet ski by a pro or get a Jet Ski Manual  |
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